Jump to content
pepe karaivanov

Προετοιμασία Των Σκι Για Το Καλοκαίρι

Recommended Posts

Μετα λιμαρουμε της ακμές ...

Επειδή πιστεύω οτι αυτό είναι το δυσκολότερο μέρος όσον αφορά στο ski service μήπως θα μπορούσες Pepe ( ή κάποιος άλλος φίλος) να δώσεις περισσότερες πληροφορίες;

Και επειδή μπορεί να πεταχτεί κάποιος και να πει

"'Παίρνεις μια διαμαντόπετρα και ...λιμάρεις μέχρι να γίνει λείο" να τον προλάβω λέγοντάς του η ακμή του σκι έχει δύο "γωνίες" μία σε σχέση με τη βάση και μία σε σχέση με το πλευρικό τοίχωμα του σκι.

Επιπροσθέτως, επειδή θεωρώ τρομερά σημαντικό να έχεις καλές ακμές (αλλιώς μόλις γέρνεις γωνιάζεις νιώθεις τρομερή ανασφάλεια) καλό θα ήταν να το πιάσουμε από την αρχή.


Edited by Velissarios
  • Like 1

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Ski And Snowboard Tuning 101 - Edge Angles

“What Are The Edge Angles Of My Skis?”





The most commonly asked question someone buying ski and snowboard edge tools asks along with attendees at any of our Boot Camp Technician Training courses asks is "What are the angles for the edges of my skis/snowboard?

Indeed we used to have an extensive list of edge angles, and still do – Each manufacturer in theory has their own ideal edge and base angle. Whether these are what angles are actually on the skis is another matter, as during run of producing skis, belts and stones wear, so what might be 2 Degrees 9am on a Monday could be closer to 1 Degree on a Friday afternoon.


Firstly, for those in a hurry, let me give you a “broad-stroke” answer with a few key brands and the angle the majority of their skis run:


Side Edge Angle

Base Edge Angle

Atomic Skis Blizzard Skis Dynastar Skis Head Skis K2 Skis Kastle Skis Line Skis 1° (Claimed 1.5°) Movement Skis Rossignol Skis Salomon Skis Scott Skis Volkl Skis
Snowboards – For snowboards, the stock angle is 1 degree side edge angle and 1 degree base edge angle, although reality is often different!

However, for those that want to really get the best from their skis or snowboards and the edge tuning tools they have invested in, read on…


The correct tuning of the side edge and base edge has a huge influence on the way your skis or board behave on the mountain. So it is a good idea to understand the basics before we continue.


The side edge is the edge we work the most when tuning and sharpening. We set the base edge, which as you can see in the above chart is pretty much always 1 Degrees, and then we maintain it every now and again, polishing out any nicks. The side edge, we change the angle to change the way the ski or snowboard behaves depending on snow conditions on the mountain and the type of skier.


One thing to remember, that a 90 degree (Right Angle) edge is always going to be the strongest edge. This means a 1° base edge and 1° side edge. This does NOT mean it is the best edge though!

Note: Before you do any base edge tuning, you should always start with new skis/board, or if used treat the skis or snowboard to a base grind at your local quality workshop. This ensures the base edge does not end up high or shallow to the base material, which is not what you want, and that you are working from a relatively flat starting point.


The key thing that needs to be remembered about a base edge, is that it should never be “zero”. This is when the base edge is exactly in line with the base of the skis or snowboard. Why? Well, when we want to turn, we tilt to ‘engage’ the edges. A base edge with no angle at all, will constantly catch on the slightest undulation in the snow, resulting in a bad time on the mountain, or worse!


Very few servicing shops actually set the base edge to exactly 1° using a tool, and for that matter many factories do not either! As the base is ground pre waxing, it is often pushed into a grinding belt on a rubber wheel, and with the skis or board in the middle, they are pressed from above as they pass along the belt, this flexes the rubber wheel and gives a slight grind to the base angle. It won’t be 1° but it will not be zero!


But if you are tuning your own equipment, a good quality (i.e. NOT plastic!) base file guide will allow you to set a perfect base edge angle. Once this has been set, you would only need to reset the angle after a long period of skiing, or after a full service/repair, as all the sharpening will then be done from the side edge.

IF you cannot afford a base file guide (And we know they cost a bit but they ARE worth it!) Then you can take your tuning file, and wrap some masking tape around one half of your file. If you then put this on the base of your skis with the tape on the base, and press down on the edge, you will be creating an angle which is not zero. This is OK if you are in a pinch, but for regular and pro quality servicing invest in the base file guide!


The side edge angle is where we do our tuning and sharpening. We offer far more detailed advice on tuning the side edge angle in our DIY guides or if you attend one of our Boot Camp Technician courses. This article remember is to answer that question about what angle to set your side edge at. These are the recommendations we make to customers that ask this questions, and that are willing to ‘release themselves’ from running the manufacturer’s edge angle.


Remember – always use a good quality side edge guide and file. Also do check your file carefully before each tune, to make sure it is clean and observing the direction arrow on the edge of the file if it is a single cut tuning file (the most common)


As you read our advice you will see a connection between the brands of skis and their target audience and performance of the skis vs. each side edge angle:

1 Degree Side Edge Angle [NEUTRAL]

Combined with a 1° base edge angle this gives you a 90° angle for the edge profile. This is the strongest edge being a right angle. We call this a NEUTRAL edge, as it can be used by anyone, and will work well across most snow conditions from powder to firmer snow.


+ Provides a strong and neutral edge, with no nasty surprises. Ideal for beginners and intermediates, and advanced skiers and boarders wanting a neutral feel across the mountain

- Does not perform as well on hard snow conditions or ice. Can feel a little too neutral for more aggressive skiers and boarders

2 Degree Side Edge Angle [sTANDARD]

Combined with a 1° base edge angle this gives you a 89° angle for the edge profile. You are creating a slightly more acute angle on the edge. We call this STANDARD as we think this is an ideal balance for most skiers. This is why it is used by a lot of manufacturers. It is not as strong as a 90° edge so will need tuning more often but we are not talking a huge amount. This edge angle performs better in firmer snow, and for carvers who work their skis and boarders on piste allows you to roll edge to edge and feel extra grip. It will not feel too grabby, so a good balance overall
+ Provides enhanced performance on firmer pistes, with more planted edge hold, and the potential for slightly more speed. Ideal for all skiers other than beginners

- A beginner may find this slightly too active, and only once they have engaged the edge which takes a little more tilt

3 Degree Side Edge Angle [ADVANCED]

Combined with a 1° base edge angle this gives you a 88° angle for the edge profile. This will really enhance grip on firm pistes. This side edge is often found out of the box on performance piste skis, or all mountain skis where the width or construction of the ski means a small loss of grip, which a 3° side edge angle helps overcome.


+ Superb grip on ice and firm piste conditions

- You need to be more aggressive to engage the edge, and when you do it really hooks up quickly, so not for those wanting to cruise the mountain!



Beyond 3 Degrees

We are heading into race territory at this point. Racers will run side edges from 2 Degrees to 7 Degrees depending on conditions. A shallower edge angle of 87° or less is going to offer amazing grip but require a lot of dynamic power from the skier to work the edge down the mountain, and will have much more of an on/off switch feeling, so the risk of coming onto or off of the edge at the wrong moment is increased. Detuning the tip and tail can help counter this, but getting the detune zone is far more critical, especially for a racer. It is not uncommon for a racer to actually run a variety of edge angles down the ski length, to fine tune the feel on the mountain. For the rest of us, this is becoming overkill though!

  • Like 3

Κράτιστον κτημάτων ευβουλία.


Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Το μεσο της διαδρομης Πεπε στην 4-14 ειναι το 9 οχι το 7.Αυτο που πρεπει να αποφευγεται ειναι να σφιγγεις στα ακρα της διαδρομης.

Αν εσυ θελεις να σφιγγεις μεχρι το 11,θελεις τουλαχιστ

ον 14αρα δεστρα για να εισαι ασφαλης.Τωρα τα 5L+2 δεν ξερω τι ειναι

Μα 14ρα εναι και τα αλλα που εχω 12 ι 13 ειναι (στα σλάλομ σκι )

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Edge Beveling

Posted by on


September 03, 2011
Peruse answers to common questions below, as well as our tips collected over the years from our wisened cutomers around the world.

Beveling the steel base and side edges on skis and snowboards can greatly affect their performance.

Increasing the base edge bevel lifts more of the bottom edge off the snow which, because steel edges drag in snow more than p-tex base material, results in better glide and greater speed. Base edge bevel at the tips and tails also makes it easier to initiate a turn, since the outside lip of the edge is lifted slightly off the snow and won't catch unexpectedly.

Beveling the side edge surface helps increase the gripping power of a ski or board on ice and hardpack snow. The trick is finding the right relationship between the base and side edge bevel to match your needs.

Although factories aim to deliver accurate skis and snowboards with a 1/2 to 1 degree base and 1 to 3 degree side edge bevel, they sometimes arrive in shops with base bevels that vary in degree along the length of the ski or board...or are unintentionally high (in the 2-3 degree range versus the desired 0 to 1 degree range). This can be checked with a true bar (see graphic below).

Factory edge grinding also sometimes results in unintentionally overheated…and therefore overhardened…edges. If so, they require ‘softening’ with an aluminum oxide or diamond stone before the steel can be correctively filed or beveled in the future.

Racers and high-performance skiers and riders, however, may want to adjust the bevel more to suit their particular needs. A slalom racer, for example, might choose a 3 to 4 degree side and 0 to 1/2 degree base edge bevel for super sharp grip when making quick turns on an icy course. A giant slalom skier might stick with a 1/2 to 3/4 degree base edge bevel, but reduce the side edge bevel to 2 or 3 degrees so the skis glide fast, but aren't too grabby. Speed events such as Super-G and downhills usually dictate more base bevel and less side bevel. When

When American Bill Johnson won the Olympic downhill years ago, his skis were tuned with a 4-5 degree base edge bevel and a slightly reduced side edge bevel...this provided the fastest possible speed for Johnson on a relatively flat, soft downhill course. By contrast, Tommy Moe won his Olympic downhill gold with only 1 degree of bottom edge bevel. This was dictated by the steep, icy conditions on the course in Norway.

A mogul skier who pivots their ski underfoot and doesn't want tips or tails to catch in the bumps might prefer a 1.5 degree bevel on both the base and side edges. Extreme skiers who drop into ultra-steep or icy chutes will graduate the bevel along the length of their skis, such as a 2 degree side bevel underfoot that changes to a 0 or .5 degree bevel at the tips and tails. Conversely, they'll start with a 2 degree base edge bevel at the tips and tails, then taper down to a 0 degree base edge bevel underfoot. This allows their skis to get great grip underfoot (handy when you're perched above a cliff or crevasse), while allowing the tips and tails to turn easily in narrow chutes.

After any beveling, be sure to polish both the base and side surfaces of the steel edges as smooth as possible without dulling the cutting edge.



Skier Base Bevel Side Bevel

Novice/Intermediate 1 degree 1 degree

Advanced All-Mountain 1 2

Expert All-Mountain 3/4 - 1 2 - 3

Slalom Racer 0 - 1/2 3 - 4

GS Racer 1/2 - 3/4 2 - 3

SG & DH Racer 1 2 - 3


Rider Base Bevel Side Bevel

Beginner 1-2 degree 0-1 degree

Intermediate 1 1

Freerider 1 1-2

Spinner 2 0

Boardercross 0-1 1-2

Halfpipe 1 1

Slalom Race 0-1/2 3-4

GS Race 1/2-3/4 2-3

Super G 1 2-3


It is pretty simple to determine the side edge angle on your skis or snowboard. Using a black marker (Sharpie, etc.) to color about 4" (100mm) of your side edge. Next place your finest diamond stone, or natural stone, in your side bevel guide or tool. Adjust your tool to 2°, or choose a guide that measures 2°. Using the guide or tool lightly pass the stone along the side edge, the stone will remove the black marker, depending on where it removes the marker will give you clue to the angle.

1. If all the black is removed you have chosen correctly and the angle is 2°.

2. If the black on the face of the edge closest to the base is removed, the angle is greater than 2°, readjust your tool to 3° and try again.

3. If the black on the edge closest to the side wall is removed, the angle is less than 2°, readjust your tool to 1° and try again.

It is not uncommon for actual angles on your ski or snowboard to measure slightly less or slightly more than the angle indicated on your tool, that's just variance that can happen when skis or boards are run through a machine. Go with the angle on your tool closest to the angle on your skis and you'll be good!


If you're not using a bevel guide to set base edge bevels, use an automotive feeler gauge to check the gap between your base edge and a true bar laid flat across the base. Here's a chart:

Degree of Bevel Reading on Gauge

1/2° = .0015"

1° = .003

1 1/2° = .004

2° = .005

2 1/2° = .006

3° = .007


Due to less leverage they get from their boots (relative to most alpine ski boots), some telemark skiers prefer a little less base bevel on their skis. They might go flat (no base bevel) underfoot, increasing to a 1° bevel at the ski tips and tails. They combine this with a 1 or 2° side edge bevel the whole length of the ski. This gives them a sharper, more acute edge overall for more grip, while allowing the tips and tails to release into and out of turns.

Jim D., Precision Ski, Frisco, CO


There are basically two mechanical approaches to beveling ski or snowboard edges.

First, you can choose to use bevel "devices". These tools usually feature a plastic body fitted with small steel files (or other optional inserts), plus an adjustment that lets you dial in a desired bevel angle. The advantage of these tools is convenience, adjustability, easy to learn to use, and they provide pretty precise results in the hands of even a less-than-attentive or skilled mechanic. Their disadvantages include more frequent file replacement (since file inserts are small and wear faster) and less "feel" for the cutting action of the files. We usually recommend these tools for beginners, folks born without meteoric learning skills, or those less mechanically-gifted.

Secondly, you can choose to use bevel "guides". These tools reflect more traditional filing techniques in that they're used along with a regular 8" (or similar) mill file, or any diamond or hard (arkansas) stones. Their advantage is flexibility (use 'em with whatever favorite file or stone you prefer to bevel, deburr, polish or detemper rock damage), longer file life (since files are larger and you utilize their full cutting surface), greater cutting sensitivity (since your fingers are usually in direct contact with the file itself instead of a plastic tool body), and more bragging rights (since this is assumed by some highbrows to be a more refined craft ). Downside? Their use requires greater attentiveness and can take klutzes (like us) a little longer to master. Plus many bevel guides (but not all) are sold in degree-specific models...meaning you can't use the same guide for different bevel angles.

The bottom line? Bevel "devices" are akin to driving a Buick with an automatic transmission, while bevel "guides" are for those 'hands-on' folks who prefer using a stickshift and clutch.


Before beveling edges, make sure the ski base is absolutely flat using a true bar and your favorite base flattening tool. Otherwise, if the base is convex, you'll get too much bevel...and if concave, too little bevel. Sometimes those expensive stone grinds change your edge bevel, and your favorite skis just aren't the same. To measure the amount of bevel on an edge, I darken the edge surface using a marking pen. I put a fine diamond stone in the beveling tool, set it for the angle I want to test, and make a light pass over the edge. If the stone removes marking pen ink across the entire width of the edge, the bevel angle is the same as what the tool is set for. If it removes ink from only the inside of the edge (next to the p-tex), then the bevel is greater than what the tool is set for. If it removes ink from only the outside, then the angle is less. The same test can also be done on side edges as well. Jim Lansdowne, Evergreen, CO


When side beveling skis start with .5 to 1 degree maximum and increase it slowly from there if necessary. Radical side bevels of 3-5 degrees do not provide the returns you might expect. Skis can be ruined by over-beveling and the performance characteristics of radical beveling aren't suitable for everyone. Start with less, and only after testing the performance on snow should you work slowly towards more side beveling.

Van Brassington, K2 Serviceman


Before beveling the bottom or side surface of steel edges, color the entire surface of the edge from tip to tail with a permanent marking pen. As you bevel, you'll file away the color coating. This way you can visually monitor the amount and uniformity of bevel you're imparting.

-Matt T., Glendale, WI


If you're learning to sharpen steel edges with a hand-held file, carefully "listen and feel" for clean cutting action...as opposed to grinding sensations or noise. Grinding indicates problems...such as a dull file (resharpen or replace it); edge shavings building up under the file (clean it frequently with a file brush); or work-hardened edge sections caused by nicking rocks (use a diamond or pocket stone to cut away these ragged and/or glazed areas before filing). Your filing will be cleaner and crisper as a result.

If you're filing ski or snowboard edges, but find that your file isn't contacting the edge consistently, avoid the temptation to just bear down harder to make it cut. This indicates other possible problems that heavy-handed filing might just make worse...such as a convex base (check it with a true bar, then flatten the base as required with sanding, a hand-flattening tool, or a shop stonegrind); the edges may already be over-beveled (again, check this with a true bar...it may be necessary to flatten the base a bit to "erase" some base bevel); the file may be bent so that it's not contacting the edges (check the file against a true bar to see if this is so and flip it over or replace it if necessary); there may be old wax on the base that's gumming up file teeth (scrape all excess wax off the base first with a plastic scraper, and then keep file teeth clean using a file brush); the ski or board may have recessed edges (some come from the factory like this to simulate a predetermined base bevel); or, heck, it might just be late and you're wiped from a hard day on the hill, and don't realize you're filing a pair of nordic race or jumping skis that don't even have steel edges (get some ZZZ's dude!).

Be aware that right- and left-handed tuners almost always bear down harder with their predominant hand when filing. This can create more bevel on one edge of your ski or snowboard than the other. Try to apply even pressure with both hands when working, and apply pressure directly over the steel edges (not the ends of the file) so as not to bow or bend the file, and use base and side edge file guides to insure precise bevel results on all edges along their full length (don't feel like this is wimping out or cheating...it's what world cup tuners do, too!).

The other remedy for bearing down harder on a file with your predominant hand is to file tip-to-tail down one edge, then tail-to-tip up the other. This will pretty much cancel out any discrepancy in bevel angles caused by uneven pressure...but, again, you're better off using a bevel guide with your file rather than risk uneven or variable results.

File with a slow, steady rhythm using overlapping strokes...filing too fast produces heat that can be detrimental to files and steel edges. File teeth are designed to cut in only one direction...not back and forth. You can detect this by running your thumb down the file face and feeling for sharpness. Always file in the cutting direction only and don't bear down on the return stroke, or teeth can quickly be damaged beyond repair.

Use light pressure when bearing down on a file whenever possible...a good clean file will still cut quickly with less wear and heat build-up, plus there's less chance of bowing the file which can result in a convex base and heavily or unevenly beveled edges. Keep a file brush handy and use it every few strokes, and store files carefully to prevent unnecessary damage or wear.


1) Avoid the missionary position...never stack files atop one another or they'll literally wear each other out. Store each in it's own plastic case if possible.

2) Brush their teeth...a file that is frequently brushed with a file card will cut better and last longer.

3) Chalk 'em up...rubbing a thin layer of most any common chalk into the teeth will help the file slide more easily along the base, doesn't load up with steel shavings that would otherwise be ground into the base, absorbs oil from your hands that would otherwise contaminate the base, and doesn't impair cutting efficiency.

4) Soak 'em in file sharpening solution...an 8-12 hour (overnight) bath will actually eat away some old metal, exposing sharp new teeth. This will usually work at least twice before retiring your files. Please note, however, that this trick does not work with chrome files.

5) Stop backsliding...files are made to cut in only one direction. If you backdraw a file two or three times, it'll break off teeth and you'll end up having to buy a new one.

6) Avoid case-hardened edges...when a steel edge hits a rock, the resulting friction creates enough heat to temper (or harden) the edge at that location. The steel will look very shiny and glazed, and is so hard that it can chip the teeth on a file. Use a diamond stone to remove all the glazing before filing this edge.

7) Before you start using a new file, put a piece of masking tape on one face of the file and work with the other. When the file starts getting dull (begins skipping or rolling along an edge instead of cleanly cutting it), expose the unused face and cover the worn side.

8) Put a piece of cloth tape (from a first aid kit) on the surface of any file bevel guide where you clamp on your file...it'll create some cushioning that'll help keep the file from shifting around while beveling.

9) Don't use wraps of tape around one end of a file to bevel the base edges on sidecut skis. Due to the radical change of ski width from tip to waist to tail, this technique will create more base bevel underfoot than at the tip or tail, which is just the opposite of what you want. On a traditional ski, this variance might be as little as 20% but on sidecut skis this variance can be as much as 50%. Instead, spring for a bevel guide or device to ensure getting the results you want.


Stone grinding ski and snowboard bases can sometimes work-harden steel edges. This is due to the friction involved and means you may have to remove it with a diamond stone before filing, since a work-hardened edge can be harder than the file.

Keith R., Sandvik Tools Co.


Fisher has produced some skis with "Plasma" edges. These are regular steel edges that, after the skis have been made, are zapped along the lip by a laser for a split second. The intense heat created work-hardens the outer surface of the steel from a normal rating (Rockwell 40) to a very hard (Rockwell 62) rating. This hardening is done to reduce edge wear for recreational skiers who, generally speaking, are less attentive to tuning needs than serious skiers or racers. To tune these babies, you'll first need to remove this hardened surface with a diamond stone before filing or beveling with regular files or edge tuners.


Use 6" or 8" files for side edges...these files are thinner and flex more easily than longer models so they'll conform to the sidecut of the ski or snowboard better. Take your choice of 8" or 10" files for base filing skis...or a 14" file for snowboards. For simplicity's sake, an 8" file is the best choice for both side and base-edge filing.

If you're just starting out and are a bit of a mechanical klutz (no offense)...we recommend getting an edge tuning or beveling device (see Bevel Tools). Although they don't provide quite the same "feel" as a mill file, they're mighty hard to beat for convenience, consistency, and quality filing results.


Good files are a joy to use, so it only makes sense to take good care of them. Use a file brush to remove steel filings and wax build-up after every three or four file strokes. To minimize clogging and prevent oil build-up from your hands, rub ordinary chalk into the teeth. Don't use too much or too little pressure when filing, push or draw the file only in the cutting direction, work in overlapping strokes from tip to tail, and always lift the file off the ski or snowboard on the return stroke. Don't lay files flat on the workbench, or store 'em stacked one atop the other...they'll get dirty and dull very quickly. We store our files individually in plastic sleeves or cases, and soak them in file sharpening solution when they start getting dull...this doubles or triples their average life.


I use a cheap grocery store-brand toothbrush (and replace it based on the recommendations of 4 out of 5 skiing dentists) to brush the filings out of my side edge tuner and riller tool. I also file the other end of the brush (it's soft and wouldn't dream of hurting your skis or teeth) into a shape to clean the wax from the center groove of the ski base.

-Jay H., Shawmut, ME


Have you ever had a problem cleaning p-tex or wax from your files? I use my heated wax iron to warm up my files a little, then brush out any stubborn debris with my file card. Remember to wipe off the iron base afterwards so it's clean for your next hot wax job.

-Phil Lind, Louisville, CO


To avoid shredding the palm of your thumb when filing edges, put on a band-aid vertically along the outside of your thumb and then wrap tape around the thumb from the first knuckle down to the base at your palm.

Josh Greenfield, N.J.


To help remove stubborn wax or gunk from a file that resists a file brush, briefly heat the file with a propane torch, then brush again...most everything should come off easily when warm.


Fingers gnawed to the quick? No nails left after hours of tuning friends' skis? To save fingertips and help guide your file when side filing, hold a popsicle stick under the file with one or two fingers like it shows in the drawing.

-Jonathan K., Telluride, CO


I like to wear batter's gloves on my hands when filing edges to prevent cuts and abrasions. They are made of fine leather for good grip and allow the best sensitivity for handling tools and gear.

-Bjorn R., Natick, MA


A common mistake made when filing steel edges with a mill file is to apply more pressure to one end of the file than the other. Most right-handed mechanics, for example, will unconsciously bear down harder with their right hand. Naturally, this causes the file to cut more edge and base material from one side than the other. Be sure to check your work regularly with a true bar or roll pin to prevent this. Or file tail-to-tip first, then tip-to-tail after that to balance out any discrepancies.


After years of hearing the woeful laments of poor misinformed souls who believe "flat-filing" is a technique used to flatten convex or concave ski bases, we decided it was time to share a little secret that could possibly help relieve some of this unnecessary pain and suffering.

Yes, Virginia, there is a Santa Claus...but even he can't seem to find a regular mill file that cuts p-tex worth a damn. So you shouldn't waste time trying, either. Mill files cut metal (like your steel edges) real well, but usually aren't sharp or aggressive enough to effectively slice p-tex. To expect otherwise is as futile as using a pizza cutter to carve a Thanksgiving turkey fresh outta the oven...it just ain't gonna cut it.|

The misconception of flat-filing probably stems from prehistoric days before stonegrinding machines were discovered. Skis fresh off the production line at the factory were quickly run over a belt sander before being shipped to ski shops. Unfortunately, the process of heating up and bonding together such diverse materials as metal edges, epoxy, wood, foam, metal sheets and fiberglass is not as simple as mixing coffee and cream. A curing time is required before everything tries (a very key word here) to settle comfortably together...and this process sometimes takes awhile.

Anyway, the new skis were still going through curing changes while in transit. By the time they arrived at ski shops, they often had...among other things...high or railed edges. Ski shop mechanics really hated life back then since they didn't have stonegrinders either, but fortunately were tough, stoic blokes, who, sporting abundant scar tissue on their thumbs, spent most of their working hours hand-filing these edges down "flat" to the p-tex base. This was before the days that base edges were intentionally beveled (although they often ended up this way due to heavy-handed filing), and this process was usually referred to as "flat-filing".

Besides being a crummy tool for cutting p-tex, there's another reason not to use a mill file to flatten a base. Few files are absolutely flat...they often show a slight curve along their length...and since you usually grip a file at each end, it tends to bow even more under pressure and therefore wouldn't yield a flat base anyway.

Nope...if you want to correct for a concave or convex p-tex base, use the right tools such as a base flattener tool, sanding with silicon carbide paper, scraping with a sharp steel scraper or getting a good stonegrind at your ski shop of choice. You'll be a happier camper.


Since there's only so much edge material on a ski or snowboard to begin with, it kinda makes sense to only file away as much as absolutely necessary...unless, of course, your parents own a ski factory or something. When beveling base edges on new gear, for example, it might only take 3 passes to do the job . It's easy to overdo...especially if you're not using a file bevel guide or your file is getting dull or dirty. Assuming your ski or board base is flat to begin with, simply blacken the base edge surface with a marking pen. Once you've filed away this ink, you know you've accomplished your goal. Don't keep filing until you start cutting into p-tex along the base edge...this is too much.

Also, don't file base edges daily or at every tune-up. Instead, use a diamond stone (or similar) to deburr and polish base edge surfaces, then do the same to the side edge. If this doesn't sharpen edges sufficiently, then lightly file the side edges only. Not only is it easier to remove material here, but wiser, too...because whenever you file away base edge material, you'll also have to remove a similar thickness of p-tex from your entire base to maintain the bevel angles you originally started with. Think of all the unnecessary work...not to mention shortened ski or board life...this creates!


After working night repair crew for a number of seasons at Mammoth Mountain, our crew started using old fingerless bicycle gloves when filing edges. The padded palms offer good palm protection, while the fingerless style still allows for base and edge 'feel'.

Whenever you are filing and encounter hardened or rock-damaged edges...but don't have a diamond stone handy to remove the glazing...try reversing your filing direction (tail-to-tip, instead of tip-to-tail). Sometimes the file will cut away the back (and often softer) side of the steel edge.

-Michael Smith, Sparks, NV


A handy file cleaner can be quickly fabricated from a spent brass cartridge case from a 30-06 rifle or similar size. These can be obtained new or used from most gunsmith shops, a friend who shoots, or as discards at a public shooting range.

To make one, simply flatten the mouth of the cartridge case in the jaws of a bench vise. The rest of the case becomes the handle. To use the tool, hold the file to be cleaned securely down on your workbench, or clamped lengthwise and face up in a bench vise. Set the flattened tool tip on one side of the file, bear down, and push it across the width of the file following the slight angle of the teeth. The soft brass case will be quickly scored by the steel teeth to conform to their peaks and troughs so you can push any wax, p-tex, and other gunk out from between the teeth. A surprising amount of force can be applied to stubborn debris and the tool works on files of all sized.

-Special thanks to James Flood of Waverly, NY, who obtained permission for us to reprint this tip by Steve Acker that originally appeared in The Home Shop Machinist magazine


To get the longest life from a file when using it with a bevel guide, start by using only the very end of the file...just enough to contact the steel edge and ensure it won’t slip off. As the teeth at this part of the file get dull, however, extend the file out a little further so fresh teeth are again exposed. When the first several inches at the very end of the file are dull (on both sides of the file, of course), snap off that section of the file in a steel bench vise, etc. You’ll now have a shorter file, but one with fresh sharp teeth exposed. Continue using it until the file gets too short to work well with your bevel guide. This trick lets you maximize the use you’ll get out of any mill file, plus save you money.

Before using any edge bevel guides or tools, be sure that whatever part of the tool sits against the ski or snowboard base is clean. These surfaces often pick up wax, filings or other grunge...and this accumulation can either scratch your base structure or affect the precision of your bevel results. To remedy this, rub the dirty surface of the tool with a piece of fine scotchbrite or fibertex to quickly and efficiently remove any buildup.

-Pam Warman, U.S. Ski Team Technician


Use the end of an old file to create your own sidewall plane. First, cut the file (see drawing) using a dremel tool with a cutting disc. Then true and deburr all edges and you've got an effective sidewall plane.

-Mike L., Bloomington, MN



If you take your gear to a shop for tuning, check out the quality of their work by asking to see other examples of their work...like on a recently-tuned demo ski or snowboard. Check the edges with your fingernails to see how well it's been filed, deburred and polished; ask how much the base and side edges were beveled (and why); check the base with a true bar to see if it' s been stoneground flat, and if the structure is clean and crisp (with no p-tex hairs visible). The shop tech should also ask you questions... such as where and how well you ski or ride to determine the best tune, and also inspect your ski or board to diagnose and suggest appropriate repairs. If you don't like what you see or hear, go to another shop...or, better yet, do your own work at home and get the tune you deserve.


Filing ski or snowboard side edges by hand...using a side-tuning device or mill file with guide...is always better than having these same edges belt-sanded on a shop machine. Belt sanders often leave the edge surface slightly rounded due to compression of the belt, whereas a steel file produces a very flat surface for better edge grip.


Since they are already easier to turn due to shorter length and greater sidecut, detuning shaped skis is not usually necessary. Maximize the edging capability of these shorter skis to allow them to ski "longer"...you will definitely notice the difference on hardpack or ice. For the same reason, it is not necessary to bevel the base edge...but by beveling the side edge from tip to tail you will get great grip in hard snow conditions.

Shaped skis are used in shorter lengths than traditional skis, and are designed so the full length of the edge engages to carve nice crisp turns. But if you feel your shaped ski tips and tails are just a little too sharp and make it hard to initiate a turn, then simply increase the base edge bevel at tips and tails by 1/2 degree more than what you use underfoot. This will still give you good carving grip when the ski is turned up on edge, but allow the ski to initially slip into a turn easier.

Steve S., Marblehead, MA


I tune skis and snowboards for friends, but live near the ocean where the salty air makes for some edges that accumulates a lot of rust!

To remove heavy rust before filing edges, I carefully use a small Dremel tool with a small rotary sander on it (used mostly by modelers and wood sculptors). I attached a rolling guide to it and lightly spray the edges with base cleaner to reduce friction and keep down the rust dust. I keep the tool moving and work down the full length of the edge in one direction. Although the sander leaves a certain sharpness to the edge, it should always be followed by filing, beveling, deburring and polishing in the normal fashion.

Charles F., Wrightsville Beach, NC


Do your edges ever slash through your ski or snowboard bag and dull or damage the edges? Slit a piece of garden hose to slip over the edges and lash it on with rubber bands or shoelaces to hold it in place.

Steven T., Saskatoon, Saskatchewan, Canada


After tuning your steel edges, don't forget to check your ski or snowboard top edges, too. Use a fine razor knife or mill file to remove nicks and plastic burrs there. This will protect your hands, clothing, car interiors, etc. from unneccessary accidental cuts. Once smooth, apply some paste or liquid wax along these edges and sidewalls to keep snow from sticking and to get better glide.

David A., Perth, Scotland


Unless you must use a designated left and right ski due to underbinding cants, different boot lengths, or other special reason, switch your skis every other day or so of skiing to help ensure more even wear on both ski edges. On race days, switch skis at the race start for fresher and sharper edges.


Beveling the backside base edge of a snowboard more than the frontside base edge is important because initiating a backside turn is harder...neither the knees or ankles flex in that direction. Asymmetric boards are designed to accommodate that..the backside edge has a shorter tip and longer tail because boarders find backside turns easier to finish than frontside turns. Likewise, top snowboard tuners are sharpening the tip of the frontside edge more than the backside tip, and sharpening the tail of the backside edge more than the tail of the frontside.


Getting good edge grip on ice or hardpack is a tough task for most skiers, but technology inspired by the concave design of ice skate blades enabled Ed Dittmar of ICE (Ice Control Edge Company) to create the microgroove...a tiny groove machined into the steel edge of a ski under the feet. In effect, it reduces the surface area that contacts the ice, and thus increases edge penetration. Although the main beneficiaries of ICE edges will probably be weekend skiers who tune less frequently and exert less torque, racers such as Marc Giradelli have also been using it since 1989.

Tester claim skis are 2.2% faster on an icy course with the microgroove...that's 1.32 seconds on a 60 second course. It costs about $40 per pair to have the microgroove machined into your edges at a ski shop, but it can (and should) be deburred and polished periodically by hand with the ICE Polishing Tool.

When testing we found the ICE microgroove worked well on icy slopes, although it took a while to find the optimal angle of skis on edge when turning...it held like a dam until the skis were cranked too far on edge, at which point the extra gripping advantage was lost.


Plastic margarine containers and bowls of various sizes work great for organizing families of tools (files, scrapers, stones, true bars, etc.). Just think, how many times have you spent what seems like forever looking for your 6" Pansar file that was hiding under a piece of scotchbrite?

-George A., Kalkaska, AK


Base flatness is critical, yet flat filing is a primary source of convex bases...even for experienced technicians and racers. The cause is flexibility of the files. Two files together, however, are virtually unbendable...so I rubber band two files with a wood paint paddle in between together. The wood prevents the files from dulling each other and you still have two file surfaces to work with.

-Scott I., Cape Elizabeth, ME


When I first began tuning skis, side filing was the way to get sharp edges, but I soon ran out of edge because I did it too often and too aggressively. It's better to side file lightly and less often, and rely on gummi or diamond stones for regular side edge maintenance to keep burrs off.

-Ben H., Sugarloaf Ski School, ME


If you have weekend ski-tuner hands like mine and don't like wearing gloves because you lose some feel for tools or your friends give you shit for it, use small strips of 1" medical tape (ski patrollers carry it) over your thumbs and index fingers for protection from sharp edges and filings.

-Chris M., Longmont, CO


Some folks believe the true measure of a mechanic is how deep the edge filing pile up around their feet. Such antics are great for circus performers, but remember, you're a tuning technician! Other folks return diamond files to us, denuded of all abrasive coating, claiming the tools defective. This is due to heavy-handed use which dislodges the diamonds glued to the metal plate. If folks kept their tools clean, they wouldn't have to press so hard, and both the tools and gear would last much longer...plus save 'em dough and frustration. Don't be heavy-handed...a light touch with the right tool goes a longer way.


I use a can of compressed air to clean off the small files in my bevel tool, as well as blow shavings out of freshly-drilled binding holes.

- Noah S.


Some Atomic alpine race skis feature narrow strips of ceramic base material inlaid along the steel edges. This is done to help avoid base burn, since ceramic is harder and more durable than p-tex.

You can tune, patch and wax these areas just as you do the rest of your base without a problem.


  • Like 1

Κράτιστον κτημάτων ευβουλία.


Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Edge Treatment

While you have your files out... Check files for sharpness and damage. Buy a new file each year and mark the old one with a "W" for "working" file. Use this file for odd jobs and save the new one for your edges.

Speed Tips

  • Make your tips and tails aerodynamic (I not talking about the edges, but rather the actual top/bottom of your ski/board tip or tail). Some skis are squared off. Take the working file and round off the edges, then smooth with 220-grit Silicon-Carbide (SiC) sandpaper and polish with 400-grit SiC.
  • Remove rough areas on the top surface (over the entire length) of the ski/board with 400 grit silicon carbide sandpaper.

Check for Flatness

  • Hold a true bar to the ski at 8-10 points along its length.
  • You are looking for a base that is consistent along its length, neither high nor low compared to the edges.
  • Base material should be free of waves.

Edge Angles

Keep in mind... After you set your edge angles once, use diamond or aluminum oxide stones to sharpen, not metal files. And sharpen from the side only. This will be explained in detail below; it is mentioned here as not to be overlooked.
i_base_edge_bevel.jpg i_side_edge_bevel.jpg i_base_only_edge_bevel.jpg

Acute Edge A side bevel that is higher in degree than the base bevel gives an acute angle. This gives more grip on hard snow surfaces. General recommendation for serious racers and J3/J2 level.


90 Degree Edge Bevel A 1 degree base bevel and a 1 degree side bevel give a 90 degree total edge angle. This is a good starting point for beginning J4/J5 racers.


Base Edge Thoughts The amount of base edge bevel will affect the ability of the ski/board to pivot on the snow. The more base edge bevel, the easier it will be to pivot or slide from side to side. Once you set the base edge angle, you can't go back to the original because of the base material. With a new pair of skis the non-race skier may wish to start with a 0.5 degree bevel. If you need to resurface past this point, you may need to stone grind the base to bring it back to flat so you can re-establish the base angle. So once the base edge bevel is set, maintain it as long as possible using diamond and gumi stones.
The bevels cited below are good starting points. If the skis hook up on turns, increase the bevel by a quarter or half degree. A woman may wish to start with smaller angles.

Suggested Base Bevel Angles

  • Slalom -- 0 to 0.5 degrees
  • GS -- 0.5 to 0.75 degrees
  • Super G -- 0.75 to 1.0 degrees
  • All Mountain Expert -- 0.75 to 1.0 degrees
  • All Mountain Novice/Advanced -- 1.0 degree
  • Snowboard Beginner -- 1.0 to 2.0 degrees
  • Snowboard Intermediate -- 1.0 degree
  • Snowboard Freerider -- 1.0 degree
  • Snowboard Spinner -- 2.0+ degree
  • Snowboard Halfpipe -- 1.0 to 2.0 degrees (tip/tail); 0 to 1.0 degrees (underfoot)
  • Snowboard Boardercross -- 0 to 1.0 degrees
  • Snowboard Slalom -- 0 to 0.5 degrees
  • Snowboard GS -- 1.0 degree

Bevel Recommendations

Side Edge Thoughts Side edge beveling will give the skis more grip on the snow surface. Higher angles should be reserved for experienced racers; if the angle is too high the ski can "rail out" on a less experienced racer. Typical angles are 1.0 to 3.0 degrees. Less angle equals less grip. Slalom angles can be 3.0 to 5.0 degrees; downhill up to 3.0 degrees. A racer should start at 3 degrees. Keep in mind:

  • Higher angles are quicker to dull.
  • An aggressive edge (high angle), may be more difficult for lighter racers (young kids or women) may make it more difficult to recover from being up on the edge.

i_base_bevel_file.jpg i_side_edge_file.jpg

Which edge tool? A multitool (side & base or multiple angles in one tool) or dedicated tools (one tool for each angle)?

  • Multitools (see image example at the bottom of this page) are more convenient and simple to use. They provide precise results even for the novice. This is a great choice for the beginners and the advanced model is a tool that will do everything a casual skier/boarder will need to do for a lifetime, and is a great choice for a family with skiers/boarders of different ages and sizes. A disadvantage is they may be restricted to use only certain size stones.
  • Fixed angle bevel guides are devices that tend to be dedicated to one angle (though there are some models with shims that are more flexible). It's advantage is that it can use any stone of any size. You have a greater feel for the cutting process with dedicated tools. The disadvantage is cost, but it is a necessary one for the serious racer.

When to edge race skis...

  • If the base becomes worn or requires base repair.
  • After the ski has been tuned on a stone grinder.
  • After each training session the side edge should be touched up with a fine diamond stone followed by a ceramic stone or Arkansas stone.
  • When burrs or nicks occur.
  • Don't tune the base edge between stone grinds, just maintain it with fine stones. Remember every time you use a file on your edge, it gets thinner; eventually you will reach a limit.

Tips on Edge Tips The edge near the very tip where the ski turns up should be beveled, but the tools don't work well up there. With the grit side on the inside, fold a piece of sandpaper into fourths and use it as a file guide to bevel the edge so it doesn't catch. Make sure you don't file the base.

Base Edge Tuning

  • Mount bases in a vise on a flat plane.
  • Use an 8" hard-chromed file in a specific bevel file guide.
  • NOTE 1: Files are made to cut while being held at angles between 45 & 60 degrees. Find the angle that works best for your file. Use a sharp and straight file; dull or bent files won't cut smoothly, will require more pressure and skew the bevel. Hardware store files are made of softer steel (Rockwell hardness of 45-52) and are not as good as a quality ski-tuning file with Rockwell hardness ratings of 65-68. The harder file will cut better, with less pressure, and in turn last longer.
  • Work on the edge that is away from you (file the far edge from where you are standing).
  • Pull (don't push) the file toward you as you work backwards from tip to tail.
  • Use short, repetitive slightly overlapping strokes.
  • If you hit any case hardened areas on the edge (it will feel like a bump), use a black (DMT or Moonflex) then a blue DMT or red Moonflex diamond stone to remove it.
  • TIP: If you blacken the metal with a marker, you'll know you're done when the entire edge is shiny.
  • NOTE 2: Be careful not to get metal filings embedded into your base. You can use a non-residue tape but keep in mind that this changes your angle slightly. Better to just keep some fiberlene paper on hand and brush it away as you work.
  • NOTE 3: Do not file into the base material.
  • Polish with coarse (DMT blue or Moonflex yellow), fine (DMT red or Moonflex white) then x-fine (DMT green or Moonflex blue) diamond stones.
  • A better choice for base edges is an aluminum oxide stone. They don't cut as quickly and reduce the chance of over beveling. Start with a 400 grit and move to finer (higher number) grits.
  • NOTE 4: The goal is to increase performance by polishing the edges. There are small burrs on the edge after filing. Polished edges are faster and sharper.
  • NOTE 5: Polish in both directions (back & forth) with the red/green stones.
  • Finish with light, full-length tip to tail passes.
  • For an even finer polish follow up diamond polish with an Arkansas stone; it will "hone" the edge surface rather than "sand" it. When you work with a diamond stone you are somewhat "softening" the edge surface; removing this softened surface with a fine hard stone is honing.
  • A magnifying glass is handy to examine the edge structure; you are looking for a mirror image.

Base Bevels (Quick Notes)

Base Bevels (Extended)

Side Edge Tuning

  • Mount the ski side edge up with base facing away from you.
  • NOTE 1: Do not over tighten the clamp on the ski base.
  • NOTE 2: You may need to scrape away some of the ski material, or sidewall in order to attain the filing angle you desire. Use a sidewall cutter for this. Keep in mind that this surface should be smooth and polished after cutting. See Sidewall Cutting.
  • File edge at desired angle in the same manner as you did the base edge.
  • Polish with coarse (blue), fine (red) then x-fine (green) diamond stones.
  • NOTE 3: The goal is to increase performance by polishing the edges. There are small burrs on the edge after filing. Polished edges are faster and sharper.
  • For an even finer polish follow up diamond polish with an Arkansas stone or a ceramic edge stone.
  • A magnifying glass is handy to examine the edge structure; look for a mirror finish.
  • Go back to the base edge and re-polish with fine diamond stones.
  • Deburr the edges with a gumi stone by lightly running it along the edge (tip to tail) at a 45 degree angle.


Side Bevels (Quick Notes)

Side Bevels (Extended)

Suggested Side Bevel Angles

  • Slalom -- 3 to 4 degrees
  • GS -- 2 to 3 degrees
  • Super G -- 2 to 3 degrees
  • All Mountain Expert -- 2.0 to 3.0 degrees
  • All Mountain Advanced -- 2.0 degrees
  • All Mountain Novice -- 1.0 degree
  • Snowboard Beginner -- 0 to 1.0 degrees
  • Snowboard Intermediate -- 1.0 degree
  • Snowboard Freerider -- 1.0 to 2.0 degrees
  • Snowboard Spinner -- 0 degree
  • Snowboard Halfpipe -- 1.0 degree
  • Snowboard Boardercross -- 1.0 to 2.0 degrees
  • Snowboard Slalom -- 2.0 to 3.0 degrees
  • Snowboard GS -- 2.0 degrees

De-tuning edges

  • De-tuning affects the the turn shape, the less dulling, the truer the shape of the turn to the side cut.
  • De-tune less for a sharper turn radius.
  • For an aggressive turn use less de-tuning (about 2 in. or 5 cm).
  • Adjust the sharpness according to snow conditions with the gumi.
  • For icy conditions keep it sharp.
  • Control the degree of detuning in with the gumi. Use different pressure to transition the detuning between regions. Transitioning the de-tune region with different levels of dulling ensure that there isn't an abrupt change in sharpness.
  • Stay sharper on chemically treated snow.

Detuning Skis for Riding in the Park

Keep edges sharp without wearing them down!

  • After you set your edge angles once, use diamond or aluminum oxide stones to sharpen, not metal files. Substitute a blue DMT or yellow Moonflex diamond stone to start and follow up with finer stones.
  • A file will wear down your edges - the stone will sharpen without severe metal removal.
  • Sharpen your edges on a weekly basis (nightly during races) by using the diamond stone on your side edge only (unless there is damage).
  • You don't need to use the file again unless you change the angle or have edge damage.
  • To repair severe edge damage you may need a gray/black DMT or black Moonflex diamond stone.




Edited by leonidastria

Κράτιστον κτημάτων ευβουλία.


Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Σε αυτα τα αρθρα ειναι ολες οι πληροφοριες για το κομματι service !Τα περισσοτερα επαναλαμβανονται .Ορεξη να εχει κανεις να διαβασει και να αποκτησει τα εργαλεια που χρειαζεται αφου πρωτα κατανοησει τι σημαινουν ολα αυτα για τα πεδιλα του αλλα και γι αυτον τον ιδιο ...

Edited by leonidastria
  • Like 2

Κράτιστον κτημάτων ευβουλία.


Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Για της γονιες !!!

Τα περισσοτερα σκι βγενουν απο το μαγαζι και πανε στον πελάτη με 90* σάιτ και 0 ι 1 * βαση!!

Για να τα τροχισουμε σοστα ,πρεπι να εχουμε και το σοστο εργαλείο (κρατιτιρας με 90* για τα σκι με αυτη την γονια) εμεις κατα προτίμηση να ασχολιτουμε μονο με το σάιτ ,οχι με μπεις!!

Λιμαρουμε παντα με διαμαντολιμα ι διαμαντόπετρα ,και με διαφορετικά νουμερα (200-300-400) ξεκιναμε με την πιο χοντρη και τελιονουμε με την πιο φίνα !!!

Δυο-τρία περάσματα με την κατε μια!!! Παντα ψεκάζουμε με σαπούνι νερο !!!

Αν θελετε στα τελος ,βγάζετε τη λίμα απο το μιχανιματακι και πολυ απαλά περνατε τη γονια της βάσης με το χερι!!

Αν παλι εχετε κανει τουνινγ στα σκι σας,χρειάζεστε μιχανιματακι(κρατιτιρας) λίμας με την αντιστιχη γονια που εχετε φτιάξει τα σκι σας

  • Like 2

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites





Κατ αρχην οπως ειπε και ο Πεπε δεν πειραζουμε την γωνια της βασης παρα μονο των ακμων.Εννοειται πως γνωριζει κανεις την γωνια των ακμων εκτος αν ξερει κανεις πολυ καλα τι θελει να κανει..να κανει δηλ detuning,να αλλαξει δηλ τις μοιρες,απο 88 πχ να τις παει 87.

Τα εργαλεια των πρωτων φωτογραφιων δεν ειναι ακριβειας και δεν κανουν σωστη δουλεια ,ειναι μεν πολλαπλων μοιρων ,αλλα δουλευουν καλα μονον οταν ειναι καινουργια.

Τα σωστα εργαλεια ειναι σταθερων μοιρων οπως τα παρακατω :




Τωρα για ακονισμα και αλλαγη βασης μπορει να χρησιμοποιηθει εργαλειο πολλαπλων μοιρων οπως το παρακατω:




Αν θα δωσει λαθος θα ειναι απειροελλαχιστο και σε ολη την επιφανεια πχ αντι για 1ο μπορει να ειναι 0,96ο μοιρες.


Αυτα απο την εμπειρια μου τοσων χρονων και με πολλες συζητησεις που εχω κανει παλαιοτερα οταν ξεκινουσα να παιζω μονος μου.

Απο εκει και περα μια ψιλη λιμα και διαμαντοπετρες με διαβαθμιση χοντρη μεσαια ψιλη και μια σκληρη σβηστηρα ,ναι σβηστηρα γινεται η δουλεια μας.Στην αρχη βαφουμε με μαρκαδορο τις ακμες για να μπορουμε να παρακολουθησουμε την προοδο της εργασιας.Ξεκιναμε με λιμα και μετα περασμα με τις διαμαντοπετρες απο χοντρη προς ψιλη και παντα με σαπουνονερο ή το ειδικο υγρο που υπαρχει στην αγορα.Μπορει κανεις να παρακαμψει την χοντρη και να παει στις επομενες.Στο τελος περασμα με την σβηστηρα για μελανη ,με τροπο σαν να θελει κανεις να την κοψει με τις ακμες ,ωστε να φυγουν τα τελευταια γρεζια τα οποια δεν φαινονται με το ματι ,τελειωνει κανεις την δουλεια !Θελει προσοχη το ακονισμα να γινεται καπου 20 ποντους απο την ουρα και απο το φτιαρι.Αυτο γιατι μετα το πεδιλο θα αρπαζει και δεν θα συγχωρει λαθη.

Ολη η διαδικασια ειναι πολυ ευκολη και παρακολουθοντας σημερα τα τοσα διαδυκτιακα καναλια που υπαρχουν μπορει να παρει τον αερα της δουλειας και να εχει το επιθυμητο αποτελεσμα.Ολα αυτα μας χαριζουν απολυτη ευτυχια οταν δεν κανουμε σκι.

Edited by leonidastria
  • Like 3

Κράτιστον κτημάτων ευβουλία.


Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Προσωπικά η διαδικασία του service μου είναι πολύ ψυχοθεραπευτική... Όσο για τη συντήρηση μετά τη σεζόν, δεν κάνω "σοβαρά" ακμές, για να πάρω τίποτα μικρο-σκουριές αν είναι που σχηματίζονται κατά την αποθήκευση. Αφήνω απλά το κερί πάνω.



  • Like 1

Landesskilehrer, Wiener Skilehrerverband, Österreich
(Ski Instructor International Level 3)

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Το καλοκαιρι καθε μηνα :yes ,θελουν ακονισμα οι ακμες......για λογους ψυχοθεραπευτικους :yes οπως ειπε ο Κωστας πολυ σωστα !!!

Edited by leonidastria
  • Like 1

Κράτιστον κτημάτων ευβουλία.


Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Μακάρι να θελανε κατε μηνα αγονισμα και μακαρι να μπορούσαμε να φεύγαμε ,Argentina ,New Zealand ,Peru αλλα που..·

  • Like 2

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

γεια σου ρε τιτανομεγιστε πεπε!!!!εγω θα κερωσω αυριο...

  • Like 1

οι πουδρες και τα ψαρια, τρωγονται φρεσκα!

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Τα δικα σου ειναι απο σέρβις ,αν θελεις μονο ενα κερι μαλακο με το πινέλο ,οταν εισαι πανω στο βουνο

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Όχι έχω κρατημένες τις λαμπάδες απ το γάμο μου :P

Πεπε έχω να κερωσω της γυναίκας, του αδερφού, της νύφης κλπ...ειμαστε χιονοδρομικη οικογένεια χεχεχε

  • Like 6

οι πουδρες και τα ψαρια, τρωγονται φρεσκα!

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Create New...